Water-powered and Battery-powered back-up sump pumps

  The worst time to think about a back-up sump pump is when your basement is filling with water after a heavy summer thunderstorm. That is why now is the time to consider both the pros and cons of installing a back-up sump pump. Now granted, most homeowners aren't going to have to deal with their basement flooding due to a sump pump malfunction. However, some will and it is best that all homeowners evaluate the risk and costs so that they can make an informed decision regarding their home.
  The two options that are commonly available are the battery back-up sump pump and the water-powered version. Now it is important to mention that these two options should never serve as your primary pump, they are only to be used in the back-up role. The purpose of a back-up sump pump is to be on standby should your primary pump be overwhelmed during a high influx of groundwater or if the power goes out rendering your primary pump useless.
  The first question people raise is whether or not they should even invest in a back-up sump pump. It is honestly not for everyone.  It is however a great preventative measure to take. Some factors play into whether or not a homeowner should install a back-up. One is primarily an issue of groundwater. How often does your primary pump run? Does it run regularly or only when it rains? Other things to consider are your soil type and whether or not the grade (dirt) slopes away from your house. Because if a lot of water leaches in, you can bet that the chances of your primary pump being overwhelmed or malfunctioning go higher. Another simple question to ask is whether or not your basement is finished or if you have plans to finish it in the future. 
  So let's say that you've decided to invest in a back-up sump pump. An initial universal cost that you will need to be prepared for is running a separate discharge line which is recommended by most installers. The reason for this is that if the check valve on the other line fails it will just push water back into the pit if the lines are connected. After considering this that leads us to which option to choose: Water-powered or Battery back-up. There are pros and cons to both and so in hope of painting a fair picture of both their characteristics will be laid out.
  Firstly we are going to look at the Battery back-up. We frequently use the PHCC Pro Series products so I will be examining them. The battery back-up sump pump is very easy to install and this is one of its initial appeals because it does not require a large amount of piping or prepping. Also the battery back-up is normally cheaper then the water-powered. This is also another alluring incentive to go with this option. The PHCC Pro Series products also come with an alarm system that will tell the homeowner when something isn't working right. It will also sound an alarm when the battery is defective and needs to be replaced. So if you don't ignore these warnings, you can usually take care of any potential problems as they come.
  However, one must consider some of the set backs of a battery back-up. Firstly it is battery powered and therefore it will only last so long. So in the midst of an extended power outage, it will eventually run out of power. Also the batteries themselves have an average life of 5-7 years (but can go bad sooner!) and will then need to be replaced. That is extended maintenance and cost to the homeowner. These are things that one must consider when looking at a battery back-up.
  Now onto the water powered back-up. When installing this type of system we normally go with a Guardian system from A.Y. McDonald. These systems are run solely by water which is fed by a 3/4" line that will need to be run from your existing water piping. A great benefit of running on water alone is that it is not reliant on electrical power and therefore will be unaffected by any power outages. It also will run as long as you have water pressure in your lines so you don't have to worry about a battery going dead after hours of pumping. The peace of mind of this invaluable when the lights are out and the rain is pouring down. The reliability of this product is often times worth the extra cost that comes with it.    
  Some concerns arise however, from the usage of water in the system and how much water is wasted during the pumping process. The amount of water used per gallon removed depends on water pressure, but the rule of thumb tends to be one gallon of clean water for every two gallons of ground water. Another thing to consider is the price. Though I cannot quote an exact price this style of pump is more expensive then a battery-operated system. Also as aforementioned a 3/4" line is need to feed the pump so addition piping may be required which will add to the cost. An RPZ valve is also required by code in many areas so an additional purchase of that valve will be needed. The valve prevents gray water from being siphoned back into the fresh water system. You will also have to have a submersible sump pump as your primary pump as opposed to a pedestal because the pedestal will be in the way of the water-powered system. An existing cost may be incurred if you do not.
  I hope this gives you a platform to begin a deeper investigation into the worthiness of installing a back-up sump pump as well as the pros and cons of each style. This is not an exhaustive list by any means, but it is a good place to start. Hopefully now you have some of the information you need to make a decision.




Just don't wait until you feel the squish of wet carpet between your toes before considering the practicality of a back-up sump pump!

I've heard bad things about polybutylene ("P.B.") pipe. How can I tell whether I have it in my home?

Polybutylene pipe (also known as "P.B." or "Poly") can be common in homes built between the early 1980's and the mid/late 1990's. Primarily, it was used just for water service lines (the water supply lines entering houses from public water mains). In some cases, though, it was also used for the piping inside homes.    A few years ago, there was a federal class-action lawsuit against plastic fittings used in P.B. piping systems. Because of the lawsuit, P.B. piping is no longer installed in residential or commercial properties. The lawsuit arose over the alleged issue of the piping and fittings failing over time. The claim was that oxidants in the water, like chlorine,  reacted with the Polybutylene causing it to deteriorate and fail without warning.    If you have P.B. piping, whether throughout your home, or only in your water service line and the fittings are gray plastic, you have reason to be concerned. If the fittings are copper or brass, you may be in a better position.The fittings tend to be where most failures occurred.    To determine if you have P.B. pipe inside your house, the easiest place to look is on the top of your water heater, where the water pipes connect or in an unfinished utility room. If you see plastic pipe that looks gray or light blue, then it's probably P.B. and it is probably used throughout your house.    If you're not sure about the P.B. piping situation in your home, and want a professional opinion, give Bowers Plumbing Company a call @ 316-263-1011!   Flexible Pex plastic piping (colored white, red or blue) has generally replaced P.B. piping, and has been determined to be safe and reliable. Current plastic water service lines are made of polyethylene and shouldn't be confused with P.B. piping. Most homeowners don't have much to worry about, but should be aware of the kind of piping they have in their house.

When it rains water comes into my basement. What should I do?

  If this is a common occurrence when it rains then the wisest option might be to place a sump pump and a catch basin into your basement to pump out the water. Many times the soil type and the condition of the existing foundation allow water to leach in from the outside. Concrete is a porous material so it will allow water to pass through it so if there is water consistently next to your foundation walls you are liable to get water inside your basement. If the problem is small enough some try to seal the concrete with what is called a concrete sealer. However, a general word of wisdom, would be to have a sump pump basin and pump installed.
   What will this require? Well initially it will require some strenuous labor jack hammering up a round hole about two and a half feet in diameter. Then you need to remove the dirt beneath the concrete at a depth to be determined by the catch basin. Now you can purchase a basin made for sump pumps or you can do what some people do to save costs and set in the hole a five gallon bucket (with holes drilled in the bottom and sides to allow water to seep in). It is wise to then anchor the basin into the ground so that the rising groundwater will not force the basin out of the whole in the event of a large onslaught of water. You can use metal stakes to anchor the basin. Back fill any remaining dirt around the basin and finish the top few inches with concrete sloped into the basin.
   What sump pump should I use? There are two different styles of sump pumps one being a Pedestal, where the pump sits above the water and the other being a Submersible which sits below the water. Now Pedestal sump pumps generally run a lower cost then submersibles depending on the power of the pump. Pumps used for dewatering purposes generally generally run from 1/3 hp to 1/2 hp. Some things to think about are the amount of water needing to be pumped and also the noise level desired. Pedestal pumps tend to be noisier while Submersible pumps are much quieter. The durability of the pump is something also to be considered. The casing of the pump varies from plastic to cast iron to bronze with the latter being the longest lasting. A reliable brand that Bowers Plumbing Company uses is the Zoeller Pump Company.
  How do I get the water out of my basement? This will require some piping and some hole drilling. Using either ABS piping or PVC piping you need to run the pipe from the pump (a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" male adapter screws into pump), up and out to the exterior of the house. An 1 1/2" check valve needs to be installed on the vertical running pipe. The check valve prevents the water above the valve from running back into the basin after the pump shuts off. Make sure the flow of the valve is installed in the correct direction! Also when running the pipe be sure secure it to the joists over head to prevent excessive movement. When you run your pipe to the exterior, make sure the discharge water will flow away from the foundation, otherwise it will just filtrate down and cause your pump to run excessively.
   A couple of other things to think about are securing the sump pump (if it is a Pedestal style) to the concrete floor with strap iron. This will prevent the possible of it being knocked over or falling over during operation. Another issue is power. The pumps will generally plug into a regular outlet (GFCI preferred), so if there isn't an outlet nearby you may need to have an electrician install a plug-in. Some choose to run extension cords. That method isn't preferred but if you do make sure it is an industrial grade cord (12 gauge). Finally, a word of caution. Don't get in over your head. Some DIYs ambitiously set out to tackle jobs that are well beyond their expertise and end up wasting more time and money in the long run. Some, however, can manage a project like this quite well. Make sure you are comfortable with the work needed and that you have researched the methods of installation. If for some reason you have any doubts about completing a project like this or any DIY project, call a professional. We'd love to come out and take care of you in this way. Bowers Plumbing Company promises a fair price and quality work every time. Give us a call today! 316-263-1011
 

I have a garbage disposer that I use frequently but my drain keeps clogging. What do I do?

  This is a common problem that is generally fixed very quickly and cheaply. The source of the problem can be a few different things. When peels and rinds are put into a disposer, generally the disposer is neither strong enough nor is it run long enough to chop up the pieces of food to a manageable size. If at all possible things like egg shells, water melon rinds, and potato peelings should not be put in the disposer in large quantities. They should be discarded of in the trash or scatter them in your garden or compost pile. If you find yourself needing to put these large food items down the sink  it would be recommended that you purchase a commercial grade garbage disposer. Insinkerator has a wonderful line of products to meet your needs.
  Now for the cheaper option. Generally, people will run their garbage disposer and faucet at the same time and shut them off at the same time. This is where we have our problem. The issue is that because food particles are heavier they need more force to push them through the the lateral plumbing under the sink. When the water is shut off at the same time as the disposer this doesn't give adequate water to flush the particles through the trap. They will then get stuck and build up, causing slow and clogged drains. The solution is this: Run your water at least 15 seconds longer then your disposer to ensure water flushes out the food particles.
Making this a habit will hopefully save you money and the inconvenience of having to pay a plumber to come out and unclog your kitchen drain.

When we use the plumbing in our house, the downstairs bathroom or bathtub fills with water. What is going on?

  Often times when there is a blockage in the sewer line the bottom-floor drain lines will begin to back up. Water will come from the bathtub or a floor drain. It may eventually recede as the sewer may not be completely blocked, but returns with a second flush of the toilet. This can happen for awhile without the homeowner being aware of it. It is typically discovered by a foul smell or noticing a fixture(i.e. toilet or shower) isn't draining well.
  *Side note: If the problem seems to be related to only one fixture like a toilet or sink, the problem is probably isolated and doesn't involve the whole plumbing system. Typically the sink trap needs to be cleaned out or a liquid drain cleaner can be poured down the drain.(Show extreme caution if using drain cleaning products as many of them contain chemicals that can burn.) Possibly, the toilet needs to be augured. (Auguring involves putting a cable through the plumbing fixture in hopes of knocking loose the blockage)
  Clogged sewer lines are a common issue in older homes, especially.It is generally caused by a blockage in the sewer line. The sewer line is the pipe that runs from the house, underground to the sewer main. A blockage often occurs in these three ways. First, a build up of material could have developed over time and slowly cut off the flow of the waste water. Second, tree roots could have penetrated the pipe and grown to the point where waste cannot pass through. Finally, the line could be old and deteriorated to the point where dirt has entered into the pipe.
  When the problem is simply a build up of material, a sewer clean-out machine is going to be the best solution. There are a variety of sizes of clean-out machines depending on the size of the pipe that needs to be cleaned out. Some are ambitious enough to rent or borrow a machine and do it themselves, but it is recommended that a professional plumber be hired. The second issue of tree roots can be temporarily fixed by running through the pipe with a clean-out machine, but the roots will grow back and the problem will reoccur. There are also root-killing products that can be purchased at a hardware store but once again, this is only a temporary fix.  The source of the problem is that the sewer line is compromised at some point (or many points) and water is leaching out into the dirt. Roots are drawn to this moisture, so they will naturally grow towards the source of moisture which in this case is the sewer line. They will grow in size, often times cracking the pipe or causing a greater separation in the piping joints. This can lead to the eventual failure of the pipe. The best solution here is to replace the entire line or repair the section that is deteriorated. Finally, when the line has been compromised completely, the only obvious option is replacement.
  Now that the problems have been expressed, how do you know for certain which is affecting the sewer line? Many plumbing companies offer a sewer-camera service by which they send a camera through your line to identify exactly where the problems are. This is helpful because it can save the homeowner money by identifying specific sections of pipe needing repair isolating the problem and lessening the overall cost. Now repair isn't always the wisest option even though it may initially seem more cost efficient. If the sewer line is old enough and deteriorated enough it may prove more fiscally responsible to go ahead and invest in an entire replacement.

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What do I do when my water pressure is consistently low?

Copper

  Typically this problem is attributed to either the water service (pipe running from the water meter into the house) or the piping inside the house. It is often assumed that the water pressure is inadequate, but many times the water pressure isn't the problem. It could be, rather, that the volume of water is being limited by the piping system itself.

Pex

  To understand the source of your problem, the first thing to identify is the type of piping you have in your home and as your water service. Generally there are four kinds of piping used for water lines in homes: Galvanized, Copper, CVPC, and Pex. Galvanized steel piping is going to be silvery in color. Be careful not to confuse it with black piping which is used for natural gas/propane. Most people know what copper piping looks like, but for the sake of those that don't, it is an orange and brown color. CPVC is a yellowish plastic piping and is more rare then copper and galvanized. Finally there is Pex, which is a newer style of plastic piping. It comes in red, white, and blue colors typically. Some homes will have a mixture of piping so don't be surprised if you notice more then one type type in your home.

Galvanized

  If you've identified galvanized as your piping, this could be the source of your water problems. If there is no galvanized identified then your water service may be the culprit.  Water service lines will be either galvanized, copper or plastic. 
  Many homes built before 1975 have galvanized water service lines, and many homes built before 1965 have galvanized piping throughout the house. The problem with this kind of piping is that over time it will rust and corrode until eventually the pipe fills with rust, choking the flow of water. This happens even sooner on the fittings of the pipe. Galvanized piping lasts typically 40 to 50 years, however this will vary depending on the quality of water that you have in your area. A harder water will deposit more minerals in your piping and shorten its life.

CPVC

  Most homes will see a major benefit by replacing all galvanized water lines. An increased water volume will allow numerous fixtures to run simultaneously with no drop in pressure. Updating your plumbing will increase the value of your home and prevent future frustration.

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Where Is the Main Water Shut-off for My House?

Now this is a question that every homeowner ought to know the answer to. Knowing where your Main Water Shut-off valve is can be the difference between a little wet carpet and thousands of dollars in water damage. Water leaks on your main piping are a more rare occurrence but sometimes they do happen. So that is why knowing the location of this shut-off valve is important.

Gate Valve

To find the location of the shut-off valve we need to know what kind of foundation your house is on. This will help narrow down the possible locations of the valve. Also know what kind of valve you are looking for. It will be either a Gate Valve (left) or a Ball Valve (below).
 

• If your house is on a concrete slab then the shut-off valve is usually in a closet nearest to the water meter or it may be next to the water heater in the utility/laundry room. 

Ball Valve

•  If your house has a crawl space under it then the valve may be in a closet nearest the water meter or just inside the crawl space opening or in the garage. *Note: Sometimes the valve is out of reach in the crawl space. It may be wise to consider relocating it to near the crawl space opening or moved to another area that is easily accessible by you.*

• If your house has a basement under it, the valve is usually at the foundation wall nearest to the water meter. In finished basements it is often hidden behind an access door or hatch.

• If you still can't find it, look around the water heater, in the utility/ laundry room, and in every closet. They can sometimes be in unusual places like the garage or under the porch. There is also a chance that your house doesn't have a main shut-off valve in which installing one might be in your best interest. 

• When you find your valve, test it and make sure it works properly. It won't do you any good to have a valve if it doesn't shut-off when you need it to. If the valve is too old many times it will not properly seal and water will still be allowed to come through.

We hope this post was helpful in finding your main shut-off valve. We urge you not to wait for an emergency to know where your valve is located. Take a few minutes now and find it so that you are prepared. If you have any further questions or would like us to come out and locate it for you just give us a call at 316-263-1011. We'd love to serve you in anyway we can!

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